Driving to Gallup
Creative Nonfiction by Heidi Utz
If you’d coasted past me on the road that night, you’d have
seen a middle-aged woman driving in her PJs, slurry, a bit fragile, maybe off
to get some bourbon from the 7-11 up past the ridge. Tired, PO-ed, yet showing
few signs that me and my lover had just gotten into it once again. Blood
dripped down me, but not on the outside.
I knew this route, had done it three times this month
already. I-40 far as you could go before the AZ state line. Maybe farther. Sky
City Casino, fronting the Acoma rez: first light in getting outta Dodge. And
then the long silence that descended west of the Albuquerque citylights. Few
indications that anyone or anything lived out here. The occupants tucked into
bends of arroyos or shadows of mesas. Chunks of pedernal cutting black flat,
halving the planes of heaven and earth. The occasional billboard, jarring in
its brilliant neon against the pitch of night. Winds dusting out cavernous
skies.
I turned on the radio, hoping to find the answer to me and
Luce from a country song played at the right moment or a caller to Delilah.
Every night she spewed unconditional faith in Christ, God’s will, and one day
at a time. And if I blanked out all that religious crap, I could hear honey-luv
dripping from her voice. “Draw comfort in the darkness … and light to find your
way…”
Driving had always cleared my head. And when all that was
waiting for me at home was a woman spitting fire, ready to nail me for a daily
list of transgressions, I figured I’d hold the wheel, maybe to Cali. I’d packed
two outfits, a toothbrush, Discover card, phone—enough to start a new life. I’d
hole up in a sad-sack motel for a week or two, then rent a tiny studio 15
minutes from the beach. Sit for hours on its deck and watch the breeze rustle
the palm trees. Not much, with its ’70s decor and swag lamps, but a
harvest-gold bath, mini-fridge with a can of sauce, box of spaghetti, Gallo
red—and all mine, baby, all mine.
Midnight approached. Traffic thinned to pinpoints of light
in a vast empty field, and the night air bit holes in the desert heat, gobbling
it down. When I dropped into the truck stop to gas up, the neon bubbles read 46
degrees, 11:39 PM, Love’s Emergency Flares 1.49! A Native man with black
pigtails, white denims, and a turquoise belt buckle the size of a saucer
scrutinized me as I put my things on the counter. A Mountain Dew, M&Ms, and
a windbreaker that said NASCAR Pit Crew. The April night might freeze my calves
in these little boxer shorts, but at least my tits would be warm. I wouldn’t
need much more in So Cal anyway.
“You can’t leave your car there,” the man said sternly.
“Excuse me?”
“You can’t park your car at my pump. Pumps are for people
gassing up.”
I glared at him, too tired to argue. “Whatever.”
There it was again. Couldn’t I do anything right? Everyone
seemed to have rules for me, but none of them made sense.
I paid and headed for the exit. “You got rules?” I yelled.
“Maybe you should post ’em. I can’t read your mind.” I stumbled toward the
parking lot and climbed into the Altima. Ripped open the brown bag with my
teeth and crunched the M&Ms into my gums, sugar and peanuts in the cracks.
Luce’s ballcap on the passenger seat caught my eye as I got
in. What had we been fighting about again? I kept forgetting. Something
important. It was always important. But a punch-drunk brain can’t remember
shit. Something I was supposed to do to get her to calm down. A need I was
supposed to forget about and she’d be content. Wouldn’t slam me against the
closet door and scream in my face. Wouldn’t secretly meet her old lover—the one
she’d been loving for 25 years.
The car crested a hill, and Delilah spewed on about God and
Faith and Love. Her voice sounded like Sugar Daddy candies stretched way out
long when they got gooey soft. I wondered if I were more like Delilah—perfectly
loving, perfectly kind, adopting multiple children—if Luce would still hate me,
roll over, not talk to me for days on end. Christ, J, the girl pays your rent.
Can’t you even be kind?
Six months ago, I’d lived on my own, finally finding a place
after months of couch-surfing. Earlier in the year, my health had gone south,
such that I wondered how I’d ever recover. So wobbly I could hardly walk. When
I met Luce that July, she liked me for my sick-slimness, my vulnerability,
maybe even my compromised, less vital state. She acted all sweet, created art,
had what she called a spiritual practice. The tide was turning. I felt ready
for some happiness. But when I stored all my stuff and we moved in together, an
iron door slammed shut.
On the other side of that door was my former life: my
friends, the community I’d had for 17 years, the job I’d had for 7. The familiar places I did my errands.
Lost: all but a suitcase full of my stuff, my dog, nature I lived with and so
loved. And left with a dark, brick-floored urban cavity with a cellmate I
fought viciously. Who would have burrowed in her studio 17 hours a day had I
not insisted she stay home after eating the dinner I cooked her. Who told me my
first weekend there she was off to spend three days camping with Angel Heart. Her ex, Angel Heart.
Every day knocked a fresh hole in me. Until I felt like a trace
of the person I’d previously been: creative, capable, smart. A talker so sure
of her own words, and her right to speak them. After five months of spiraling
down, I stood outside throwing a ball for Luce’s black Lab, Ben. Ben ran like
crazy and returned the ball every time, wagging and looking up at me like I was
God. Maybe I’d spend the rest of my days making a dog happy chucking a tennis
ball, because at least that was something. And I was nothing.
I set the cruise to 85, slit the window, tried not to drift
off as the night stilled. At 1 a.m. stars blaze the NM sky like diamonds strewn
across the heavens. Scattering light, dignifying your thoughts, black as they
are. Giving you a sense there could be life in other galaxies, if you could
just find the right star.
“Where do you think you’re going?” Luce’s voice blasted through the hypnotic white dashes
striping the blacktop. “Put your keys down and get back to bed!” The Lab began
barking in time with the tension in the air. Luce stood there, hacked hair dyed
bottle red, bare-legged in a white T that hit her thighs where the varicose
started. The shirt looked dirty to me, like it’d clung to the bottom of the
hamper for months. Her breasts flopped around under it, in a way I used to find
sexy, now just saw udders. And as she kept yelling, I realized it said Niagra Falls in puny, faded letters.
Right, I thought, our little honeymoon in Love Canal.
I took the keys and jangled them in her face, slapped at the
lock till it flipped, then slammed the cell door hard as I could. The Buddhist
plaque with the Japanese words clattered. The Lab barked louder. And what I
screamed at the patio could have easily been fuck you.
A light in my rearview flashed red, snapped me back. A cop
was right on my ass, swerving anxiously from left to right. I changed lanes and
he didn’t follow. Saw him once-over me as he passed. But I guess he’d met his
quota for old dykes and let me be. Or maybe there was a pinch of mercy in this
middle-of-the-night universe that I hadn’t bumped into for many moons.
On my right was an exit. Continental Divide. Brightly
painted signs for Indian frybread and blankets and knives, 24 hours. Here you
could handle any midnight snack-and-knife emergency. I exited hard right and
crossed over the bridge. At 7,200 feet, bits of snow hugged the packed earth
and salted the rocky cliffs I could discern with my brights. Locking the car, I
felt the cold air whip the skin of my legs, but a man yelling 10 feet away
stopped me. “Come home! Dontcha know what time it is already?” he slurred into
the doorframe, as the cashier waved her arm at him.
“Raymond, go home and go to bed,” she sighed back.
When he began his retreat, I entered the massive warehouse
space, filled with every Indian item ever put to wood or metal, leather or
bone. Cheap tourist crap toe-to-toe with expensive, fine-crafted articles. I’d
never seen so many knives in one place. Under glass, the silver of their blades
gleamed in the bright overhead lights. I asked the woman for coffee and gazed
at them. When she set the cup on the counter, I wrapped my hand around the warm
Styrofoam and continued to stare down.
“Need a knife?”
“For my uncle,” I said. “He collects them.”
“Every woman needs a knife,” she said, shifting her
gaze to the entrance, where Raymond was again huddled.
Her husband began to wail, gutturally, like he was chanting.
She pulled the largest dagger from the case—handle inlaid with turquoise and
lapis. “How ’bout this?” The blade was as long as my forearm, and I startled
back a bit.
I wanted to feel it, just touch the edge. Imagine thrusting
it into skin. The biggest knife I’d ever owned was a Leatherman. This one felt
thick and heavy, sturdy in my hand. And its blade would not retract, however
deep it plunged.
For a second I felt the urge to scratch myself with its
burnished tip. Test how sharp it was. See if I would bleed. I turned it over,
back and forth, caught my image, pale and weary, in the blade. In my mind, red
slashes striped my arm, and someone could see on the outside all the bleeding I
was doing.
I handed it back and sipped at my coffee. “That all you
need?” the woman asked. I nodded. Zipped my jacket. “One fifty-nine.” I put a
buck and some coins on the counter. Strode to the door warmer now. But Raymond
stood blocking my way.
“All women are trouble. Trouble, trouble, double trouble,”
he sung into to the floor. I moved closer and he backed away, weaving toward
the outhouse. “Troubbbb-ble.... Yessiree...”
The highway felt a bit lonelier now, and I pushed scan on
the radio to get some noise. Closing in on Gallup and the AZ border, I needed
to decide. Where would I plunk down tonight? Back in the condo, Luce was
probably snort-snoring, far under in a dream. The impact of my leaving lost on
her. I could drive two hours back home, crawl into bed, hope she didn’t notice.
Not have to face the shitstorm till sunrise. Or I could spend the night out,
make my point. Won’t be pushed around anymore. Keep driving till I hit LA. Another ten hours. Not go back
for a week. Buy my ass some leverage.
Leave-rage. Leave her-age. Lev her. Love her. Leave her. My
mouth played games with the words. Though I couldn’t catch any meaning in the
sounds.
As my eyes began to close, the radio cranked out another
song—a ’70s ballad with violins. Love conquers all, even in tough times. Going
back could mean an apology, falling in love again, the peg in the circle I
waited for each time: the best-behavior, goodwill and harmony, sex-to-die-for
part. Where Luce would yield to me for a few short days, understand that she
needed me more than she let on. Or was it just … wanting me back so she could
control me some more?
If I turned around now, I’d be home by 3:30. She’d be worn
down from fighting, maybe receptive to talking. But I’d lose all that I’d gained
these hours away. Power. Not answering the phone. Making her wait. A screw I
could insert and twist again and again and again.
Why did the only power I ever had come by walking away?
Delilah told her late-night caller to stick around. “Just love him a little
more, honey. Just turn the other cheek.” Even if it was bruised and like my
spirit, bloody? Would a soft-rock selection take that away?
A screaming-yellow muscle car swerved in front of me, making
me brake hard. Yet another drunk spewing testosterone like rocket fuel on the
NM highway. Maybe it was a sign to head home, try this again in a week, with a
full suitcase, fuller tank, first thing in the a.m. There was a 50/50 chance
things would be OK when I turned the key. That I wouldn’t have to balk a second
fight. That Luce would just sneer at me and roll her big body over, exhaling
acrid contempt like factory soot. I’d crawl in beside her, make myself small,
try not to breathe.
When I considered exiting at the next green sign, my heart
thudded so loudly its bass filled the car. But late-night exhaustion poured
over me like a thick sludge, and my car veered right and slowed. In the notch
between the exit and the interstate sat a Dodge Ram towing a rickety trailer. I
braked, checked, and found the scene empty, except for two equine heads framed
by battered silver doors. As I backed to even with the trailer, I heard one
horse neighing forcibly into the night, knocking hoof against metal. The other
stood still.
I got out and peered through the truck windows but saw no
one. Peered until I heard a loud crash of metal, then turned to see the white
horse stepping onto the blacktop. Skinny, bowlegged, and tousled at the mane,
the rangy old quarter nevertheless exerted her presence: large, powerful, and
robust. I watched her observe the cars speeding down the highway, waiting to
make a move. In my dulled state, something nudged me toward her. But when I
started walking east, she spooked and began to lope. A few more vehicles rushed
by. Holding my breath, I stopped and waited, bursts of wind lashing me away
from the road.
Moments later, the mare took a few steps into the right
lane, as cars began to swerve to avoid the shoulder. “Wait!” I yelled and
started to follow her. An Escalade blaring rap rushed so fast over the middle
lane that it stopped us both momentarily. As I approached, the mare trotted in
the opposite direction, toward the thicket on the side of the road. She crossed
through the mud and over a surface road behind it, picking up speed as she fled
into a small, wooded area. I watched her silhouette darken and blend with the
charcoal slashes of bark, until all I could see was trees.
Back at the truck, I offered my hand to the other horse,
miraculously still set within the trailer’s confines with the exit wide open. I
stroked his neck a few times, then closed and latched the gate.
The mare was gone.
Inside, my car felt different now. The old leather seat
crackled beneath my bare legs, and I was awake. If I headed west, I could hit
the coast in time to watch the surfers against morning tide at the beach. I
could cross the Mojave into grungy old Needles and embrace its scruffy palm
trees, spouting fronds despite the grit, grab a bite at a Route 66 mom-and-pop
with a tarpon on the door, sit outside and feel the gentle breeze blow sand up
my pores.
That night, above some dirty downtown, the moon would rise
and the stars would twinkle. And I would stand outside on my own two feet, not
in a vehicle speeding by at 85 miles per hour, and simply look up in wonder.
The vastness of the sky would reassure me of that wide-open space in which
little in the moment mattered. And there I’d be, calculating my journey by the
North Star and the ancient words whispered inside myself—freedom now
remembered.
No comments:
Post a Comment